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Pushing our limits — Indian Creek — October 2009

Well, it’s been way longer than promised — and you’re getting a video instead of more pics. Ah well.

Anyway, I just entered this video in the American Alpine Club video contest — the video with the most views between now and Feb 15th wins some cool stuff, and is featured on the AAC site.

So do me a favor so I can win — give the video a look see. It’s 3 minutes of IC goodness. Ahhhh… wish I was back there. Instead I’m freezing in Massachusetts. Brrr. Couldn’t even go ice climbing because the weather was just too bad to get to the cliff.

Pushing our limits -- Indian Creek -- October 2009 -- Watch in fullscreen and HD for best effect

Quick IC update

Been a great 4 days of climbing! Just stopped in town to restock on a few things. Two more days left! Boo yeah, it’ll be 6 days of climbing in a row by the time I make it back to civilization for real. I’m posting this from my phone on the way out of Moab.

Highlights of the last 4 days: Way Rambo (5.12-) – 1 fall, Battle of the Bulge (5.11+) – 2 falls, Swedin Ringle (5.12-) – 1 hang, Top Sirloin (5.11) – redpoint, Annunaki (5.12-) (this was my first time on it) – several hangs and 1 fall (all on the top section).

Looks like at this point I can usually onsight anything up to 5.11-, and some 5.11, and I’m getting close to redpointing 5.12-. Whoo!

Next posting, pictures – I promise! Look for it sometime midweek, now I gotta go crank out some more routes!

Ciao,
Tad

Indian Creek Highlights: Reservoir Wall and Cat Wall

Words, words, words.  I have a habit of writing too many.  This time, I’ll try nothing but pictures and video.  Enjoy this quickie!

Sending on Reservoir Wall and Cat Wall -- Watch in fullscreen and HD for best effect

[Click on any of the photos below to launch a slideshow starting there]

View from the base of Think Pink (5.11-) on Battle of the Bulge

View from the base of Think Pink (5.11-) on Battle of the Bulge

Tad onsighting Pente (5.11-)  Awesome climb.  I can't believe how good this climb is!

Tad onsighting Pente (5.11-) Awesome climb. I can't believe how good this climb is!

Colin flashing Pente (5.11-)

Colin flashing Pente (5.11-)

Tad goofing around at the base of an Unnamed 5.11 (climb #23 from Bloom 2nd ed) on Reservoir Wall while Colin hangs his way up on toprope

Tad goofing around at the base of an Unnamed 5.11 (climb #23 from Bloom 2nd ed) on Reservoir Wall while Colin hangs his way up on toprope

Sunny on Tom Cat (5.10)

Sunny on Tom Cat (5.10)

Clowning around at the base of Kitty Litter (5.10+)

Clowning around at the base of Kitty Litter (5.10+)

Tad laybacking up Kool Cat (5.11), Cat Wall

Tad laybacking up Kool Cat (5.11), Cat Wall

There are more pics on my Picasa page.

So all you basking in the glow of florescent light, here’s your dose of what it’s like outside your self imposed jail.

Until next time,

-Tad

Indian Creek October 2009 Kickoff

Yo Yo,

Hanging in Moab, after cranking hard in the ‘Creek for the past four days.  Whoo, perfect weather, splitter cracks.  What more could you ask for?

[Click any picture to launch a slideshow starting there]

Tower shadows

Tower shadows

Haven’t cranked out a large number of pitches yet, but I’ve been working to redpoint a bunch of previous projects and get on some new stuff.  So far, it’s turning out well, and I even have a new project for the next trip (Fingers in a Lightsocket).

This trip is a bit different than my previous ones, where I was with a crew of friends from home.  This time, I’m climbing exclusively with friends I’ve made during my climbing trips, primarily from Yosemite back in the spring.

Tad at the base of Fingers in a Lightsocket (5.11+), Supercrack Buttress

Tad at the base of Fingers in a Lightsocket (5.11+), Supercrack Buttress

So far, my muscles are doing fine, but my tips and cuticles are starting to hurt and get shredded.  Yeah, that’s finger cracks for ya.

The ticklist to date:

Day 1: Donnelly Canyon (with Sunny)

Unnamed #12

Sunny following Unnamed #12

  • Generic Crack (5.10) (redpoint)
  • Mr. Peanut (5.11-) (redpoint)
  • Unnamed #12 from Bloom 2nd edition (5.10) (onsight)
  • The Naked and the Dead P1 (5.8) (redpoint)
  • The Naked and the Dead – 5.11 tips variation (TR – 1 hang)

Day 2: The Battle of the Bulge (with Sunny)

Tad redpointing Think Pink (5.11-)

Tad redpointing Think Pink (5.11-)

  • Railroad Tracks (5.10) (redpoint)
  • Think Pink (5.11-) (redpoint)
  • Crack Attack (5.11-) (redpoint)
  • Pigs in Space (5.10+) (flash)

Day 3: Bridger Jacks (with Sunny)

Summit of Easter Island

Sunny and Tad on the summit of Easter Island

  • Sunflower Tower – East Face (5.10+) (I onsighted the crux P2, Sunny led P1 and P3)
  • Easter Island – Thunderbolts (5.10) (I onsighted the 5.8 P1, and followed the 5.10 face P2 clean)

Day 4: Supercrack Buttress (with Colin)

Colin psyched at the top of his first ever IC climb after onsighting it

Colin psyched at the top of his first ever IC climb (Supercrack - 5.10) after onsighting it

  • Supercrack (5.10) (Colin onsighted, I followed clean, easily)
  • Fingers in a Lightsocket (5.11+) (I led with many hangs, then TR’d with the gear in place with 1 hang at the top)
  • The Wave (5.10+) (redpoint) – I cruised it this time, with very little trouble.

That’s it so far.  I’m heading back into camp tonight.  I’ll be back to civilization in about another 4 days or so with the next update.

You know you want to join me here.  I’m climbing until the 20th of October, so pack it up, load it up, and hit the road.  Bring your desert rack and let’s get on some hard pitches.  Stop by the message board at the Beef Basin and UT-211 intersection to find my note about where we’re camped and climbing.

So all you cubicle pukes — it’s a beautiful day outside, and life is passing by.  If you can’t get yourself out to the crags, at least live vicariously to keep your psych up.  Yeah.

Sunset behind the Six Shooters

Sunset behind North Six Shooter

-Tad

    Las Vegas to Moab – video from the road

    On the road from Las Vegas, NV to Moab, UT -- Watch in fullscreen and HD for best effect

    The drive to Indian Creek from home is about 16 or 17 hours. I split it across two days, with an overnight in Las Vegas. Bored during the drive on the second day, I found a new “continuous” mode on my camera. This mode keeps taking pictures as fast as the camera can, as long as you hold the shutter button down. Anyway, enough words. You can see the results above.

    Enjoy,
    -Tad