Hanging in Moab, after cranking hard in the ‘Creek for the past four days. Whoo, perfect weather, splitter cracks. What more could you ask for?
[Click any picture to launch a slideshow starting there]
Haven’t cranked out a large number of pitches yet, but I’ve been working to redpoint a bunch of previous projects and get on some new stuff. So far, it’s turning out well, and I even have a new project for the next trip (Fingers in a Lightsocket).
This trip is a bit different than my previous ones, where I was with a crew of friends from home. This time, I’m climbing exclusively with friends I’ve made during my climbing trips, primarily from Yosemite back in the spring.
Tad at the base of Fingers in a Lightsocket (5.11+), Supercrack Buttress
So far, my muscles are doing fine, but my tips and cuticles are starting to hurt and get shredded. Yeah, that’s finger cracks for ya.
The ticklist to date:
Day 1: Donnelly Canyon (with Sunny)
Sunny following Unnamed #12
- Generic Crack (5.10) (redpoint)
- Mr. Peanut (5.11-) (redpoint)
- Unnamed #12 from Bloom 2nd edition (5.10) (onsight)
- The Naked and the Dead P1 (5.8) (redpoint)
- The Naked and the Dead – 5.11 tips variation (TR – 1 hang)
Day 2: The Battle of the Bulge (with Sunny)
Tad redpointing Think Pink (5.11-)
- Railroad Tracks (5.10) (redpoint)
- Think Pink (5.11-) (redpoint)
- Crack Attack (5.11-) (redpoint)
- Pigs in Space (5.10+) (flash)
Day 3: Bridger Jacks (with Sunny)
Sunny and Tad on the summit of Easter Island
- Sunflower Tower – East Face (5.10+) (I onsighted the crux P2, Sunny led P1 and P3)
- Easter Island – Thunderbolts (5.10) (I onsighted the 5.8 P1, and followed the 5.10 face P2 clean)
Day 4: Supercrack Buttress (with Colin)
Colin psyched at the top of his first ever IC climb (Supercrack - 5.10) after onsighting it
- Supercrack (5.10) (Colin onsighted, I followed clean, easily)
- Fingers in a Lightsocket (5.11+) (I led with many hangs, then TR’d with the gear in place with 1 hang at the top)
- The Wave (5.10+) (redpoint) – I cruised it this time, with very little trouble.
That’s it so far. I’m heading back into camp tonight. I’ll be back to civilization in about another 4 days or so with the next update.
You know you want to join me here. I’m climbing until the 20th of October, so pack it up, load it up, and hit the road. Bring your desert rack and let’s get on some hard pitches. Stop by the message board at the Beef Basin and UT-211 intersection to find my note about where we’re camped and climbing.
So all you cubicle pukes — it’s a beautiful day outside, and life is passing by. If you can’t get yourself out to the crags, at least live vicariously to keep your psych up. Yeah.
Sunset behind North Six Shooter